Google Operating System: [DISCUSSION] Morpher Display Box Tutorial

Hello there, first off I want to say that this is only the way that I make my display boxes, others make them differently with different materials. I also make all things by hand/brush/can/knife.

so, ever wanted to make one of these, but didn't know how?

Well, I'm going to tell you how I've done it.

First, pick up your box, it depends on what you want the box to look like but you can usually get one of these:

At Micheals, though the painted ones are in short supply the last few times I've gone.

Time to prep the box. If you got a painted one, you are already done. If you are going with unfinished, then the first step is to remove all the hardware. (Hinges, snap lock)

Get yourself some wood stain, a brush for staining (not plastic bristles) stain cloth, and some rubber gloves. I just used some dish washing gloves as they are strong and resiliant, and reusable.

Here's the products I've used in the past:

Supposed to look like this:

American Chestnut

This used in differing coats produced these results:

I tried this on my first couple of boxes cause it doesn't require to wipe down or do a top layer of clearcoat. It goes on like paint, and dries within 24 hours. Recommended to use 2 coats.

For normal staining, I've used the following products:

I've used these colours:

Gunstock

Finished like this:

and

Red Oak

Finished like this:

On we go!

Here's my setup:

Brush the stain into the wood in the direction of the grains, depending on how dark you want the stain, coat it liberally and let sit for 15 minutes. Then wipe the excess stain off with the cloth. The wood should not be wet after, maybe a light damp feeling, but that's all. I coated the insides first:

Then the outsides:

Let sit overnight.

Time for clearcoating:

I used the matching clearcoat brand to the stain, in spray form to eliminate brush strokes.

I did wet sanding in between each clearcoat, it makes them shine better.

Get a high grit waterproof sandpaper. I used a squirt bottle, I squirted the box surface, and the sandpaper and rubbed the surface, gently enough not to scrape off clearcoat, but hard enough to rough it up a bit. Dry the box after sanding with cloth before clearcoating again. Be sure no cloth fibres make it onto the box as you will seal them in with the next clearcoat if not careful.

Guidelines for clearcoating:

-Put down a plastic drop sheet before spraying, do not reuse after spraying, cut a new piece.

-Spray from each side, the top will end up with the most coverage, be sure to cover the front and back additionally.

-Spray one side (inside/outside) then let dry on a clean piece of drop sheet

-Re-spray only after 3 - 4 hours, or after 72 hours. (This means do as much of your coating in 1 session then let sit for 3 days)

I did 3 coats of clearcoat on the inside, and 6 coats of clearcoat on the outside to make it shine.

This is what I got:

Hard to tell in this light, hmmm.

Next, put your hardware back on.

Time for the insert(s).

I only do an insert for the bottom as I haven't found a decent way to hold anything of some weight in the lid.

I use this type of hard foam:

It comes in sheets of 9" x 12" x 1/4"

It takes 5 pieces to make the depth of the box to hold the morpher.

Start by cutting the pieces to size:

I have made a stencil of the morpher to trace onto the piece for the morpher cut out. I cut this out on 4 pieces.:

For the top piece, trace a legacy coin, in the position you prefer and cut it out. Remember to trace the small size not the large rim. I've done boxes with 1 spot, 3 spots, 4 spot, and 6 spots for coins.

Start assembling the insert. I start with the piece with nothing cut into it, and start gluing the next piece to it. I use elmer's glue all:

[img]http://ift.tt/1CPEeS9]

I usually leave the insert inside the box overnight to allow the glue to solidify and be in the right shape.

Pry the insert out from the sides, and lets get covering.

In the past I've used felt to cover the top:

Usually the adhesive backed kind. I have since moved on to satin to get a nicer look. It is more difficult.

For starters cut your satin to a decent size and test fit it in the insert with all piece in place:

Then pin the satin to the insert around the edge of the pieces. We are going to put the glue where it won't be seen. (Beneath the coin, beneath the morpher) Lighter colour satin shows glue more than darker colours:

After pinning, start gluing the satin to the foam insert:

After the inside is glued down, I pinned it again to hold the material in place while the glue dries.

Next I glued the top and bottom edges:

Then I glued the sides after cutting them to a proper tucking size:

I made sure to pin the material on the bottom so it glues in place.

While waiting for this to finish, you can install a chain if you wish. I used I-bolts and a chain from Micheals:

Try to size it so the box is slightly past 90 degrees to get the open feeling.

Once the insert is dry, unpin it and squeeze it into the box and push the material down around the edges.

CONGRATS! You are done! Enjoy your new display box YOU made.

Here's some of the ones I've done:

A Gift for Austin St. John